First Guest: Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab, Dubai

Why book?

This is the newest place to see and be seen in Dubai. Emerging from the ocean like a futuristic superyacht coming into dock, the long-awaited Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab is the final piece in Jumeirah’s nautical trilogy, joining the wave-shaped Jumeirah Beach Hotel and sail-shaped Jumeirah Burj Al Arab on the city’s most desirable stretch of beach.

Set the scene

Marsa Al Arab extends 470 metres out to sea, on reclaimed land that runs alongside the famed Burj Al Arab, offering a new sidelong perspective on Dubai’s most famous landmark. While Burj Al Arab is all rigid lines and uncompromising verticality, Marsa Al Arab is feminine, sinuous and full of surprises.

Architect Shaun Killa was involved in the original design of the Burj more than 25 years ago, and is responsible for a number of other landmark projects in the region, including Dubai’s Museum of the Future and the new Shebara at Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea. For Marsa Al Arab, Killa took his cues from the world’s most luxurious yachts, creating a striking silhouette of sweeping curves and dramatic drop-offs.

My Marsa experience starts at my front door, where I am picked up in a dark green, custom-designed Bentley Flying Spur. For those hoping to skip the traffic altogether, yacht transfers from Dubai International Airport are available to guests in certain room categories. This is a property that aims to wow from the offset: we pull up alongside a dancing fountain under a sweeping arch that frames the Burj Al Arab (a scene Killa says he would love to one day see in a James Bond film). In the hotel’s entrance, a dynamic aerial glass sculpture mimics the movement of a sea breeze; a deep blue 3D-printed ceramic wall nods to the ocean; and 3D-printed wood panels capture the sandy hues of the desert behind discreetly positioned check-in desks.

In spite of the property’s size – 300 rooms, 86 suites and 82 serviced residences – there’s been a concerted effort to make it feel intimate and exclusive. The lobby is divided into pockets, half hidden by mashrabiya screens, centred around a charming viennoiserie by renowned chef Pierre Hermé, where the rows of pretty pastries look almost too good to eat. A custom-created scent lingers in the air – top notes of black pepper and clove; undertones of cedar, sea salt, patchouli and marine steam. The expansive grounds have a Bali-inspired vibe: thousands of trees and plants – oil palms, ficuses, Japanese saigon, olive and lemongrass – hug meandering paths, thoughtfully appointed terraces and the resort’s four outdoor swimming pools, which include an adults-only pool at Kinugawa and one reserved for suite guests at Iliana Pool Club.

There are seamless nods to contemporary Emirati and Arab culture, from lobby lounge menus designed by multidisciplinary artist Andre Mcheileh to custom-made tableware by Lebanese jewellery designer Nadine Kanso. As part of the hotel’s cultural immersion program, I spend a morning learning how to paint with famed Emirati fashion designer and artist Feryal Al Bastaki, an experience that proves almost as good for my soul as my morning in the spa.

The backstory

Homegrown hospitality brand Jumeirah operates some of the UAE’s most iconic properties, including Jumeirah Burj Al Arab, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary, Jumeirah Emirates Towers and Jumeirah Mina A Salam, as well as landmark hotels around the world, from London and Capri to the Maldives and Mallorca. It recently made its debut in Africa, with the launch of Jumeirah Thanda Island and Jumeirah Thanda Safari.